I Fixed my Xbox One Gaming Console

David Meego - Click for blog homepageThis is a completely off topic post for me. It is not Microsoft Dynamics GP, Robotics or even puzzle related.

We recently moved house (twice) and during the shift from the original home to the final home, our Xbox One gaming console remained boxed up while we lived in temporary accommodation. When we unpacked the console after the second move it failed to power on. ☹️

More specifically, when you pressed the power button/logo on the front of the Xbox One, it would start making the power up sound and then click and go no further. We tried all the usual troubleshooting steps such as unplugging everything and leaving it unplugged for a while, making sure we are plugged directly into a wall socket (thus avoiding an surge protectors on power boards), and holding the power button to see if we could do a system reset. Needless to say nothing worked, the Xbox would just start to power up and then stop with a click.

As the unit is well out of the warranty period I thought I would open it up and check that everything was securely mounted and clean any dust from the internals. I followed the instructions in the video below to open the case. It was actually really clean and nothing was out of place.

How to Open an Xbox One Console (Direct Link)

What I was able to discover by testing with the case open, was that the clicking which I thought was a mechanical issue with the optical drive (based on sound and location) was actually the little internal speaker clicking…. The sort of click noise you might get from speakers when turning an amplifier off.

So I went back to the interwebs trying to work out what could be wrong….

I came across an article that discussed how the power supply shows an orange light when in Standby or Power Saving mode, but then turns white once the Xbox powers on. In my situation the orange light never changed. This explained the startup sound followed by a click as the Xbox failed to get the power it needed.

Then I found a YouTube video by someone who was definitely not technical and had very limited electronics knowledge, but they opened their Xbox One power supply (by drilling out the T10 Security Torx screws) and found that one of the capacitors (which they called resistors) was bulging.

I decided to open my Xbox One power supply and check for the same failed capacitor, which it had. I ordered a replacement part which arrived today. A quick bit of soldering later and the power supply is fixed and the Xbox One is working again.

Here is a bit more detail on the repair steps involved:

  • Make sure the power supply is unplugged and left for a while so that there are no lights showing.
  • Remove the rubber feet: Use a really small screwdriver and slide it under the rubber feet angled down a little until you hit a hard surface, then flick the end of the screwdriver up. The rubber feet are held in place by a little plastic ring which fits into the screw holes.
  • Remove the screws: This is a little tricky as you will need a Torx T10 Security bit which has a hole in the middle to be able to remove the screws. In my case, 3 of the screws came out easily, but one of them was stubborn. I ended up using a mini drill to grind a little of the security post down so I could get a better purchase with the screwdriver.

  • Open the case: The power supply comes apart easily once the screws are removed. There is a small fan in the top connected by a cable which can be unplugged easily.
  • Optional – Clean the fan: I removed the two small Phillips screws to open the fan enclosure and then removed the two larger Phillips screws to separate the fan. I then gave everything a brush and clean and re-assembled.

  • Check the capacitors – Electrolytic Capacitors (the tubular components with exposed metal tops) are known to fail and have often been the cause of critical failures in electronics. There are four larger capacitors in the power supply, but the one by itself rather than the group of three is the one that prevents the power supply coming out of standby or power save mode. If the top of the capacitor is bulging or blown open, it is a sure sign that the component has failed.
  • Order a replacement: I tried my local electronics shops (Altronics and Jaycar) but they did not have the correct part. If you’re in Australia and can’t find a component, then RS Components will have it. I ordered a 1500uF 16V Long Life, Low Impedance, Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor 20mm long and 10mm diameter. Minimum order quantity was 5 and the shipping was a little expensive, for about $20 I had the part two days later. I have 4 spare now. 😉
  • Remove the shield/protective plate: To be able to access the back of the circuit board you will need to use a hot soldering iron and melt the solder holding the cover in place. It is just soldered with a connection at both ends.
  • Replace the capacitor: Once you have access to the circuit board you can just melt the solder holding the blown capacitor to remove it and install the replacement ensuring the negative terminal is same way around (towards edge of board).

  • Finalize the fix: Cut off the excess leads, re-install the shield and re-assemble the power supply. Make sure the screws are in tight so the power supply covers are held together and replace the rubber feet.
  • Test:  Hopefully you will have the same success I did. 😁

Disclaimer: Please do not attempt a repair like this if you are not comfortable working with power and electronics. This will invalidate your warranty if you have one that is still current.

Hope you find this article useful. I was thrilled to get the Xbox One working again without spending big bucks.


This article was originally posted on http://www.winthropdc.com/blog.

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